History of The Original Walkerville Brewing Company
At the turn of the century, Walkerville was known across North
America for the exceptional quality of its beer. Until 1952,
Walkerville was home to one of the oldest and largest brewing
operations in Ontario. Its celebrated beers were delivered in
wagons stocked with oak kegs and drawn by stately draft horses.
In 1998, Karen Bethune and her husband Michael Plunkett obtained
the right to use the name Walkerville Brewing Company and in
an unused Hiram Walker warehouse two blocks from the original
brewery began brewing Walkerville Lager, the regions first and
only high calibre microbrewery.
After fifty three years the Walkerville delivery vehicles are
back on the streets of the Border Cities with their motto: World-class
beer, Made right here.
The following article was written by beer afficianado Bill Marentette,
who worked at the orginal Walkerville Brewing Company in his
teens.
Researched AND Compiled BY William L. Marentette C.B.S. # 194
The Early Years
Walkerville has always been famous for two things: Hiram Walker
and Canadian Club whisky. But did you know that this community
was renowned for the quality of a premium beer brewed right here
from 1885-1956, and then reborn in 1998?
Hiram Walker was a man who never rested on his laurels. Having
lived through two bankruptcies, the Civil War in the USA, a depression
to rival the Great Depression of 1929, he was constantly innovating
his businesses and expanding his empire.
In 1885, he embarked into the field of lager making. Walker
proposed to brew the finest and purest lager beer ever made in
Canada from the choicest Canadian malts and hops. Like his whisky
business, Walker accepted no compromise with any venture he entered
into- nothing but the finest ingredients and equipment would
do.
With the entire wealth of Walker’s empire backing the
Walkerville Brewing Company, the most modern brewing equipment
of the day was obtained. A magnificent building was unveiled
on Fifth St. (now Walker Road) at Wyandotte, at a cost of $180,000.
Walker boasted that his brewing process, using a vacuum fermenting
system pioneered by a young German named C. Pfaudler, would completely
revolutionize the brewing industry. Walkerville beer would become
as famous among beer drinkers of Canada as Walkers "Club" and
Imperial Rye was amongst whisky drinkers in the Dominion of Canada.
The five story brewery had quarry stone foundation and cement
mortar 8 feet deep; the building’s face was Detroit red
brick shipped by the Walkerville ferry (one of many Walker owned
enterprise). As described in the "Walkerville Mercury" on
the opening of the brewery in August, 1890, a 12 x 30 office
was located on the second floor, the brew house contained a brewing
kettle with a capacity of 2,300 gallons and a room where hops
shipped from Hiram Walkers farms and the United States were kept
at a temperature of 30 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
The brewery featured two 45 horse power steel boilers, along
with various pumps and brine tanks, condensers for racking off
beer and an ice machine that took first prize at the 1889 Paris,
France exposition, beating over 36 other machines of its kind.
The main advantage with this brewing system was that aging and
storage was greatly reduced- beer could be turned out in 28 to
35 days from brew kettle to market.
A two story bottling plant was soon built, along with offices
for the company, two barns each with 5 stalls for the company’s
horses that helped deliver kegs. A spur line from the Lake Erie,
Essex and Detroit River Railroad (a Walker owned railroad) was
connected to the plant, enabling the company to ship beer to
all parts of Canada.
Although Hiram Walker remained only 2 years as president of
the Walkerville Brewery before turning it over to his son Edward
Chandler Walker in 1892, he guided the brewery with the same
enthusiasm as all his ventures.
In August 1890, the Walkerville Brewing Company produced their
first brew, soon to become their famous lager- the first batch
consisted of 70 barrels holding 32 gallons. By October, 1890
the brewery was receiving lager orders faster than they could
meet demand. In October, an Industrial and Agricultural Exhibition
was held in nearby Windsor- the brewery had an impressive exhibit
of their already famous lager brew both in bottles and casks.
The brewery soon established agencies in London, Sarnia, Toronto
and east to Montreal, where their vacuum lager was well received.
In November, the shipments began to Goderich, Kincardine, Palmerston
and Wingham. In December 1890, the company registered their trade
mark, which consisted of a series of crosses, procured from the
Department of Agriculture in Ottawa; this was used until 1945
on all their products, buildings, trucks and advertising items.
It may be that the Walkerville registration was Canada’s
first beer trade mark! The company soon sent out over 500 embossed
signs with their trade mark for use outside hotels or public
houses.
A common sight on the streets of the Border Cities was the dappled
grey draught horses hitched to their brightly painted wagons
delivering kegs of Walkerville beer and ale to the neighbourhood
Inns and Hotels. Its beer was "PURITY, CLEANLINESS, SKILL
AND UNEXCELLED MATERIAL", and advertised their products
as "Beer that is brewed in Glass".
In the spring of 1890, Walkers’ distillery hired a maltster
by the name of John Bott, born in the Channel Islands, Great
Britain, who arrived in Canada at the tender age of 18. Bott
had been engaged in the barley trade in Toronto for ten years
before moving on to Chatham, Ontario. There, he worked for Howard & Northwood
as a maltster for 8 years. Botts’ wine malt and stout
were legendary. "BOTT’S MALT PREPARATIONS" received
the highest award in its category at the Chicago World’s
Fair in 1893, giving considerable fame to the Walkerville Brewing
company where he was now employed. Using a German brewing method,
he renamed Walkerville lager Kaiser Beer. Shortly after, a Ô’BARBAROSSA’’ brand
was introduced named for Frederick the first of Germany (1123-1190),
who sported a red beard.
In 1895, Bott was named manager of the Walkerville Brewing Company,
operating on 4 acres of land with newly remodelled ale and porter
cellars. By now, the brewery was one of the finest and most complete
breweries in Canada.
That same year, Edward Chandler Walker hired his schoolboy friend
Stephen E. Griggs as manager of the breweries’ United
States operations, located at 131-146 Beaubien St., in downtown
Detroit. The Walkerville Brewery purchased the Duncan Malt House
and established a Detroit bottling plant with a capacity of 400,000
dozen bottles. All brewing was done in Walkerville and shipped
in kegs to Detroit, thus saving on excise duties.
Through this agency, ale and lager was shipped all over the
United States under the Robin Hood label. By 1897, the plant
increased capacity to 150,000 barrels annually, a far cry from
the 3,000 barrels produced just 7 years prior. Shortly after
taking charge of the Detroit operation, Mr. Griggs was named
managing director of the main plant in Walkerville, and by 1905,
became vice president and managing director of the brewery.
Griggs was doing so well at the brewery Edward Chandler Walker
asked him to assist at the Canadian Club distillery; he was made
a director of Hiram Walker & Sons in 1908. By 1911, shipments
of Walkerville Brewing lager, ale and porter were delivered as
far west as Rainy River & Kenora. The main brands included
Superior Lager, St. George’s and Rob Roy Ale.
Griggs resigned as director of the CC distillery and devoted
himself to making Walkerville Brewing a showplace. Located in
the centre of Walkerville, it soon became a top tourist attraction,
with thousands touring the bottling shop and large cellars, where
barrels of the amber nectar were stored.
In 1913, E. Chandler gave Griggs $5,000 worth of Walkerville
Stock- later Griggs purchased shares held by John Bott, the former
manager of the brewery, effectively giving him control of the
company. Griggs was then made president of the Walkerville Brewing
Company.
That same year, the company employed over 55 employees, the
plant consumed over two million pounds of malt, thirty thousand
pounds of hops, filled thousands of glass bottles and four thousand
new kegs annually. The brewery introduced Continental, marketed
XXX Porter and a stout for medicinal purposes- despite Hiram
Walker’s passing in 1899, the brewery was living up to
his lofty standards!
Hiram Walker’s son, Edward Chandler Walker, in poor health
for a number of years, died on March 11 1915, at the age of 64.
Among the many legacies in his will was a large amount of money
left to his schoolboy friend, Stephen E. Griggs, who became the
full owner of the Walkerville Brewery.
By 1916, with the "war to end all wars" raging in
Europe, the provincial government enacted the Ontario Temperance
Act, banning the selling of liquor or beer; this lasted until
the end of the war. In October 1919, a referendum was held to
determine whether the act should be repealed or retained on a
peacetime basis. The citizens of Ontario voted with a four hundred
thousand majority to establish Ôprohibition’ as
the permanent law of the province.
By 1920, the USA also went dry when Congress passed the Volstead
Act, prohibiting the manufacturing or selling of intoxicating
alcohol; this remained in force until 1933. Like many other breweries
during prohi-bition, Walkerville produced non-intoxicating beverages
containing less than 1% alcohol. The company claimed it as refreshing
as full strength beer, under the labels Continental Lager and
Scotch Boy Ale.
During prohibition, the brewery established "export docks" in
Lasalle; boats would load Walkerville products day and night.
It also had a "Night Order Only" shipping clerk at
the brewery and would ship to various export docks.
Griggs continued to guide the company until the age of 74; in
1925, he disposed of his major holdings in the company to Detroit
investors and retired. After a change in ownership in 1925, the
company invested $500,000 in capital improvements. A $50,000
bottling line extension was installed- the most up to date in
the province at the time.
No human hands touched the bottle nor its contents until after
the bottle had been filled, capped and sterilized. Storage capacity
was increased to 200,000 barrels, staffed by 140 men, with an
additional 25 bodies during summer months, to handle increased
production.
In May 1925, the Ontario Government legalized the sale of 4.4
proof spirit beer called "Fergies Foam". The Walkerville
Brewery shipped approximately 4,500 cases and 750 eight gallon
and 13 gallon kegs in its first day! Huge crowds paraded the
streets and jammed hotel lobbies and beverage rooms in the Border
Cities, anxious to quaff the new 4.4 beer.
The Liquor Control Act of Ontario came into effect on June 1st
1927; pre- prohibition beer was made available to the public,
effectively ending Prohibition in Canada. Of the forty-four breweries
that operated prior to prohibition only 15 remained; Walkerville
Brewery was one of them.
Full strength beer was for home consumption only, and hotels
and taverns were only allowed only to serve 4.4 beer or ale.
In 1927, the Brewer’s Warehousing Company was granted
a charter for the distribution and sale of all brewery products
along with the retail outlets attached to the breweries and a
government inspector at each store.
A Detroit newspaper hailed the Motor City as the wettest city
in the United States, despite continuing prohibition in the USA.
Though four separate government agencies were enforcing prohibition
laws, Canadian breweries and distillers were able to creatively
move product across the border. In 1928, a $75,000 office building
was built next to the plant.
Walkerville introduced John Bull Ale about this time. With the
collapse of the stock market in October 1929, and the beginning
of the Great Depression, the market for beer also collapsed.
Only the export business kept the company afloat, but with prohibition
still in force in the USA, many breweries operated at less than
20 % capacity. In 1934, the Ontario Liberal Government announced
the legalization of full strength beer by the glass, allowing
standard hotels to operate beverage rooms.
In Windsor, the first license was issued to the Norton Palmer
Hotel- by 10:30 am on July 24th, beer was being flowing in most
of the local hotels and clubs, to great aplomb. To promote the
sale of Walkerville beer products, the company resumed its traditional
delivery system using teams of horses hauling old beerwagons,
as in the early days of the brewery.
By 1939, the brewery entered foreign markets, including Trinidad,
British West Indies, Jamaica and the Barbados. At the start of
World War II, Walkerville’s industrial centre generated
machinery for the war effort. With a huge demand for labour,
men and women migrated into the region, generating strong demand
for beer and ale; sales of Walkerville products soared.
The brewery was producing well over 100,000 barrels of their "Old
Style Lager, Rob Roy Ale" along with porter and stout. Windsor
soon faced a beer shortage, due to government restrictions imposed
by the War Measures Act (industrial alcohol was used to make
smokeless powder, synthetic rubber and pharmaceutical products.
This severely curtailed beer production by all breweries across
the country- less than 10% of the 1942 total-while demand continued
to grow. Windsor Mayor Art Reaume wrote to Prime Minister W.
L. MacKenzie King, proposing a beer rationing scheme.
In May 1943, a ration book was introduced for home consumption.
Four cou-pons, each good for six bottles, were issued to those
21 years of age and over upon application; these coupons continued
in use until January 1947. For some time, Canadian Breweries,
under instructions of E.P. Taylor, had been buying Walkerville
Brewery shares on the open market.
On March 18th, 1944, Canadian Breweries announced they had purchased
the majority of all outstanding shares at a cost of $1,500,000.
When Canadian Breweries took control of the Walkerville Brewery,
Charles S. King, president of the British American Brewery, stated
the plant would continue to operate under the Walkerville name
but could consolidate at a later date with the British American
firm.
The following year a change was made, not to consolidate with
British American but with another Canadian Breweries subsidiary,
Carlings Breweries of Waterloo. D. Clive Bette, president of
Canadian Breweries, stated all Walkerville labels would change
to Carling Breweries Limited (Walkerville) and would produce
both "Carling’s Red Cap Ale, and "Carling’s
Black Label Lager".
All Walkerville brewing production came under Carling’s
Waterloo control. During this period, alterations to the plant
were carried out. This new name change was short lived, and in
1947, a subsidiary of Canadian Breweries, O’Keefe’s,
took control of the Walkerville plant.
A new retail store was opened and modifications to the plant
carried out. Because "O’Keefe’s Old Vienna
Lager" was the company’s flagship beer, the name
was changed from O’Keefe’s Brewery to O’Keefe’s
Old Vienna Brewery. On Sept. 15th 1956, an official statement
from Canadian Breweries head office in Toronto announced the
closing of the Walkerville Brewery (which was still producing
over 100,000 barrels a year), effective November 1st, 1956. A.
F. Fuerth president of the Bradings Brewery in Windsor, another
Canadian Breweries subsidiary, stated that sales staff and the
retail store would remain in Windsor and the building would be
kept intact in the event it was needed in the future.
However, the days of brewing beer in Walkerville were over.
In January 1962, a permit was issued for the demolishing of the
old brewery; demolition was completed by June ’62. The
retail store remained on site until 1965; when sales transferred
to Brewers Retail in 1973, the former O’Keefe’s
retail store was demolished. Today, nothing remains at the site
of one Canada’s finest breweries, and the location is
now a Credit Union and Storage Centre. But some things are too
good to be left to history books.
In
1998, the
rights to use the name Walkerville Brewing Company were obtained once again. In an empty
Hiram Walker warehouse, two blocks from the original brewery,
Walkerville Lager is brewing once again- the region’s
first and only high calibre microbrewery. Thus, after fifty four
years, Walkerville delivery vehicles are back on the streets
of the Border Cities with their motto “World-class beer,
Made right here.”
As it was in the beginning...
About the author: Bill Marentette worked at The Walkerville Brewery as a teenager.
His collection of Walkerville Brewery memorabilia is second to
none.
Sources
Amherstburg Echo; American Breweries, Donald Bull, Manfred Freidrich
and Robert Gottschank; Border Cities Star; Directories of Canadian
Breweries, Richard Sweet; Evening Record; Taylor E. P. , Biography
of Edward Plunket Taylor, Richard Rohmer; Shea, Albert A., Visions
in Action, The Story of Canadian Breweries Ltd. 1935-1955 ; The
Sheaf "The Canadian Breweries Employees Newspaper";
Windsor & District Telephone Directory 1927, Fall & Winter;
Windsor Daily Star; Windsor Record; Windsor and Area City Directories;
Windsor, Essex County Historical Scrap Books; Windsor Ontario
1931, Published by Windsor Record, Garner, H.; Windsor Public
Library Main Branch, History & Literature
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